Lisbon Part 1

When I would tell people about my plans for a one-year sabbatical, the second thing that surprised them was usually that Portugal was my first stop.  I don’t think most Americans think about Portugal much.  Travelling abroad usually means the UK, France, Italy, Germany, or Spain.  The little country to one side of Spain usually just slips right by them.

I have to admit that I was of those people.  It only took some research to change my mind.  It occurs to me that the country you never hear about in the news is the one you need to live in.  No political upheaval, no random accounts of violence every day, no major headlines at all coming from this country.  It’s ranked as one of the safest countries in the world with a top 20 rank in healthcare.  English is widely spoken and the natives are very tolerant of outsiders.  

Americans may be ignorant of this country, but Europeans sure aren’t as Lisbon is truly a multi-cultural city.  Just walking down the street, you can hear multiple accents and languages, see every color of skin, and people of all ages.  I like that I don’t stick out like a sore thumb as a single black woman.

My neighborhood, Belem, is located just north of Lisbon proper.  Following a random woman as she crossed the street on my first day, I found myself on a pedestrian bridge that takes you over the busy highway and impassable railroad tracks.  The bridge is connected to a new museum called the MAAT.  It’s modern design gives you a great view from the top while the path leads you down a very nice walkway by the river Tagus.

It was a gorgeous sunny day on Thursday, so there were a lot of people out and about.  Even at 3 in the afternoon there were people walking their dogs, playing with their kids in the park, biking and scooting by (the scooters are everywhere and I think they’re free to the public) and just enjoying the sunshine.  There was a good laid-back vibe to the city that I immediately liked.  I had to take a shot of this contraption as I’ve never seen anything like it before.  It’s a rolling bar where the guests have to peddle to get it moving while they drink beer and socialize.

Beer isn’t the only thing free flowing in Lisbon.  If you’ve been walking all day and really need a glass of wine, Portugal’s got you.  There are literally carts scattered all over the touristy areas offering a variety of wine and some beer (Super Bock is big here).  Even at my lovely apartment, the only bits of ‘food’ were a bottle of water in the fridge and a bottle of wine on the counter.  If I were a wine person, I’d be in heaven.  Though I can’t imagine being a heavy drinker and trying to navigate the uneven cobblestone walkways.

Yeah.  About that.  While pretty and historic, the walkways are kinda tricky.  Rome still wins the title of most exhausting, but this city has its obstacles, too.  Lots of crowds, streets busy with cars, buses and taxis (who are very accommodating to pedestrians), oh, and look out for the flying rat you’re about to kick.  Portugal is big on having stairs just appear out of nowhere.  There will be a slight incline and suddenly there’s a step and if you’re not prepared for it, you will trip. 

The city is known for being on seven hills.  Makes it great when you’re looking out at the skyline, but not so great if you’re walking up those bad boys.  Most people were wearing sneakers or sensible boots which just made the occasional woman looking cute in her high heels stand out all the more.  Every time I saw one, I had to keep my jaw off the floor and pray for the safety of that poor woman’s ankles.

I didn’t come to the city with a specific plan.  While I am scouting Portugal as a new home, I knew I didn’t want to live in Lisbon.  Too noisy, too crowded, and too expensive.  That being said … I could see myself living here.  My rental is in walking distance of a bus stop and the train station.  Belem is three stops away from the end of the line and from there you can exit the street level train and head for the underground that stops all over the city.  Being a mixed-use area, there were several restaurants and small convenience stores along the way to the train stop.  Multiple museums are a few blocks away along with some gorgeous gardens and parks.  If that's not enough, there is a bank of taxis right by the pedestrian walkway and tuk-tuks darting all over the place ready to take you anywhere you need to go.  Gotta love the easy access to everything.  Just what I’m looking for in a new home as I don’t want to own another car or live in another car-dependent suburb. Almost thirty years trapped in Atlanta traffic was more than enough.