Friday, February 23, 2024

We Now Return to Our Regularly Scheduled Programming

 

                                                                        Istanbul Airport

Yeah, well, that wasn’t the end of the matter.

After yet another flight to Istanbul, another cab ride back to the apartment in Balat that I had recently vacated, and hooking up all my electronics again, I discovered there was still more paperwork to sign.  The lawyer contacted me with news of more last-minute changes.  Glad that our communication was written out so she couldn’t see me rolling my eyes and sighing, I told her where I was and that there was no way in hell I was heading back to the states any time soon.  She suggested that the father, as the executor of the will, could sign in my stead.  Yeah.  Do that.  Whatever.

Don’t get me wrong.  I was pleased (is that the word?) to even be mentioned in the will.  My aunt and I had not seen each other in decades.  While she was technically my god-mother, neither of us had made much of an effort to stay in contact.  I only heard from her again after her husband died a few years ago. 

It’s just that repeatedly dealing with lawyers and everything being rush-rush after months of zero activity just had me kind of anxious.  It didn't help that I found out this latest news after getting off yet another long-haul flight.  I was eager to put all that away and get back to finding a life for myself.

After a few more arrangements, the matter was finally settled.  I also settled quite easily back into my routine in Türkiye.  Looking for jobs, writing, trying to finish my seemingly never-ending data analysis course on Coursera.  The usual. 

I’d added some more money to my phone's esim for Türkiye, but it turned out to be unnecessary.  Google Fi continued to work when I got off the plane.  I thought initially that they had reestablished my international service because of the new sim card I’d installed.  But, no, I bought this card after Jamaica (thanks!) before my last trip to Türkiye.  I guess they reset my roaming period after being in the states for more than a week.  Well, time to take full advantage of it before they cut me off again because, no, I have no interest in spending any more extended time in the U.S.

I’ve never called Istanbul a quiet place.  I’ve always referred to it as chaos in city form.  Below is a picture of some of that chaos.  The walk to Sultanamet from Balat is a tricky one.  The city is trying to make it easier by laying down sidewalk.  They were working on the project when I first visited the neighborhood last year and have made some progress.  The work crews are still there, though, and the area is currently even more of a mess.

 


There is a shared courtyard behind trusty #7 in Balat right outside of the bedroom.  I’ve seen people playing ball there, hanging out clothes to dry, and using the area to feed animals.  The animals are where this space becomes a problem.

The cats are everywhere in this city and are a big part of its charm.  Not so much when they are screeching in the middle of the night, particularly during this time of year.  Spring is almost here.  Time to make little cats.  It’s one thing to hear a single cat in heat outside of my house in Georgia.  It’s an entirely other matter to hear multiple cats all around the apartment in surround sound.

The birds are another part of what makes the city special.  The seagulls are a welcome part of the skyline, hovering over the water or fighting with each other over scraps of bread on the ground.  But when they all decide to squawk at the same time, I swear the sound makes me feel like I’m in the jungles of Costa Rica again.


And then there’s that damn rooster.  There’s a chicken coop in that same courtyard.  Every morning, before the call to prayer, after the call, sometimes during the call, that rooster is making a ruckus.  Like I wasn’t already awake.

I really need to kill that bird.  Kill it, eat it, and mount its head on the wall of my new apartment.

Add all of this noise to the honking cars, the snoring of one of my neighbors, and the regular calls to prayer and sleep was not always the easiest thing to do in that apartment.  This left me with too much time to think when all I wanted to do was sleep.

I’d think about all the places I’ve been, about how razor sharp my memory has become over the last year.  Some random event will pop into my head like a road I passed through or a meal I had and instantly I would know where I was when those things happened.  I’d end up giggling in the dark at the memory.

But the good thoughts would only last so long and then I’d be plunged into existential dread.  I still want a stable home, but to attain one I need a steady job.  Multiple sources have described this as a particularly horrible job market.  The rise of AI concerns me while I try to establish a writing career as does my struggle to stay focused.

Living in Portugal is still the goal, but I know full well that the country doesn’t care about my plans.  There have been a lot of changes in the government recently that I’ve been monitoring.  They look to end their tax incentive programs for foreigners if they haven’t done so already.  The price of everything is rising there as it is everywhere.  I don’t know if I’ll make enough at the job I don’t even have yet to survive there.

I’m doing okay for money so far and for that I’m grateful.  I know there are people who are seriously struggling right now.  But, with nothing coming in, the money will eventually run out.  I don’t want to get so desperate for a job that I end up back in the states having to start over from scratch.  And even if I did move back, getting a job is still not a guarantee.   

The world still feels like it’s heading straight into the crapper, doesn’t matter where I am when it happens.

I sometimes feel like I’m on the cusp of figuring things out, but I just can’t make all the right connections.

I don’t know.  Being alone so much has my mind racing sometimes. 

Fortunately, the days keep me too occupied to worry so much.  Just navigating the streets of Balat is a full-body, deep thought endeavor.





Friday, February 16, 2024

Handling Some Business in the States

 


Time for another mini tantrum.

I did not want to leave Türkiye so soon, particularly because I was still fuzzy on the visa restrictions about coming back.  As I mentioned in an earlier post, the country dropped its visa requirements for Americans and I wasn’t sure how that would affect me.  My Schengen days weren’t quite reset yet and I wasn’t interested in staying in the states for too long.

I’d already paid for another week in the apartment.  Yes, the cost for accommodation is pretty cheap in Istanbul, comparatively speaking, but that’s still money I didn’t want to leave on the table. 

And, as always, there was the whole mishigas of navigating airports, getting on yet another international flight, and returning to the states – things I wasn’t ready to do yet.  The whole situation put me in a foul mood.

Still, I packed up and headed to the airport.  I was slightly wary considering the wrong turns my last taxi driver made in taking me to the cargo loading area for Turkish Air, but this trip went off without a hitch. 

Something to note that I encountered at the airport.  I wanted to have one last simit before I left the country, so I picked one up at Simit Sarayi (translation:  Bagel Palace, a local chain).  A simit on any street in Istanbul is ten lira – the equivalent of 33 cents USD.  At the airport it cost 65 lira.  I know airports put a markup on all their goods, but selling a single bagel for six times the normal amount should be illegal.  The cappuccino I ordered was even worse – it ended up costing more than the entire breakfast I’d had that morning.

Highway robbery, I tell you! (Airport robbery? – whatever)

Back in the states (sigh), I landed in Raleigh, North Carolina as opposed to ATL.  This was a new airport for me and I hadn’t been in Raleigh since I was a kid so I had no idea what to expect.  Knowing I was heading to ATL afterwards, I didn’t bother to rent a car for this short trip.  Those things are expensive and I had no interest in trying to navigate a new city. 

I specifically chose a hotel that provided shuttle service from the airport and was located close to the law office.  I stood outside the airport in the bracing night air, waiting for a shuttle that never came.  It was after midnight after all and I had no idea how late the shuttle ran.  After a good twenty minutes, I said “screw it” and called an Uber.  I figured it was a gamble to find anyone driving this late at night but Iucked out.  A dude picked me up and deposited me at the hotel a few miles away.

The hotel did have a shuttle service that came in handy when it was time for my appointment the next day.  I was trying to catch an Uber but the app wouldn’t work for some reason.  Hey, free transport is always better, although dinghy me didn’t get the guy’s number so I could call him to pick me up afterwards.  The law office was indeed close to the hotel, but it was bit of a hoof.  Oh well.  Since Uber still wasn’t working after my appointment, I figured I had nothing else to do with my day.  The weather was reasonable, so I got on the good foot.

Fortunately for me, most of the trip had sidewalks and there were plenty of commercial areas along the way.  I stopped for lunch and bought some books for the trip back to Europe.

The next day it was back to Atlanta and all that involves.  At least this time I arrived on a domestic flight, so no international shuttle or customs to deal with.  I’d also arrived in the afternoon, so plenty of time and daylight to get my business done.

The Raleigh Marriott was almost identical to the hotel I stay in while in Georgia, right down to the area where they serve free breakfast every morning.  There’s always a TV playing in that area that I do my best to avoid.  It serves as a reminder of all I leave behind when I board a plane to cross the pond.

The headline in North Carolina was a couple of women who got shot while walking in their neighborhood.  As far as I can tell, the attack was unprovoked.  I tried to do some more research on the aftermath while writing this post but … sigh.  Apparently, I wasn’t specific enough on which shooting I wanted to investigate.  There were so many reports of shootings that happened in Raleigh in February 2024 that I couldn’t narrow it down to the one I was looking for.

Switching to the TV in Atlanta, I knew ahead of time to ignore everything on screen.  That TV seems to perpetually be stuck on Fox News spewing some garbage.  Then the commercials for divorce lawyers and prescription drugs assault my ears and I find myself eating faster just to escape the noise. 

Anyway, on to the business of being in Atlanta.  I already posted about doing my hair, an all-day activity.  I also got my eyes checked, which I hate doing, but my eyeglasses are looking a little worn.  Time for a new prescription, especially considering that the last one was from 2019 after I lost my glasses in the ocean in Mexico (good times).  The sight in my right eye is slightly better this trip.  I’m used to my eyes getting worse with age, so this was a bit of good news.

I also got my taxes done in an office after trying to do them on my own.  Since last year was … unusual to say the least, I was a little lost on what paperwork I’d need to show.  I stopped by a tax office to find this out, had to go back through all the paperwork I could find, then bring all of it back to that office.  It took a minute to do, but at least that’s out of the way.


The rest of my week-long stay was my own so I found ways to keep myself busy while I pondered my next move.  That Saturday was particularly gorgeous so I decided to take a walk along the Noonday Creek trail.  The entrance to the trail is not far from the hotel though I’d only discovered that the last time I was there.  Unlike my previous exploration, I followed the trail all the way to the end this time and was stunned to find myself on Main Street Woodstock.

I stopped at a crowded burger place for lunch (not bad) between bouts of just wandering the area.  The heart of Woodstock has been set up like the walkable city it used to be when first established.  Apartment complexes and condos are sprouting up all around the restaurants and small boutiques that line the street. Still no grocery stores in walking distance, though.  That was the only thing really missing from this setup, but otherwise it was pretty idyllic.

Walking along the trail on the sunny day, I’ll be damned if Woodstock wasn’t charming me again.  It reminded me why I have always referred to the place as fair Woodstock.  It was such a nice day, it made me think that maybe the world wasn’t burning.  Maybe the U.S. is not so different from Türkiye or Portugal, that it was, in fact, livable. This place is really nice.  Maybe I should move here!

No.  No.  No.  No.  It’s still too expensive and violent in this country.  Without my high-paying job, I couldn’t even afford the house I just sold last year.  And I have no interest in finding another corporate job just to maintain the house.

I didn’t sell that house and leave the area because it had gotten run-down or because I grew to hate it.  I still love fair Woodstock.  Just not enough to stay.

So, after accruing an expensive week-long car rental bill and an even more expensive hotel bill, I paid for an equally extravagant plane ticket and headed back to the airport.  I was in line to check my bag and got a text from a number I didn’t recognize. It seems there was even more paperwork to sign.  Seriously? Not only had I flown in from Türkiye to sign papers in Raleigh, I’d had to electronically sign more a couple of days later.  I had been in Atlanta for a week and considered that business settled.  Now, I’m literally at the airport about to leave the country and this comes up again? And, just like the last two times, I was expected to drop everything to get this done yesterday.  People do have lives you know!

Needless to say, I was a little perturbed.  I whipped out the computer at the airport, signed the papers (again) and boarded my flight hoping that was the end of the matter.

Saturday, February 10, 2024

Hair Care on the Road and a Rant About European Bathrooms

 

                                                                     Camille Brodard for Unsplash

Though 2023 has been the most amazing year of my life, not everything has been peachy.  I have done my hair dirty this year.

A little background on me.  I have had natural hair for the last 15 years (I can’t believe it’s been that long!).  What that means is that my hair is not chemically treated to make it straight.  It is very long, very curly, and it is my personal pride.  My hair is life.  My hair is love.  Can you feel the love tonight?

My hair is also a challenge while on the road.  I knew it would be this way.  What with the washing, detangling, deep conditioning, and twisting, the process would take hours when I was living in Georgia.  When I still worked in an office, I would only go through this once a week on Sundays.  When covid hit and I wasn’t leaving the house so often, the schedule changed to every two weeks. 

During my travels, the process is greatly reduced.  I don’t have access to my hood dryer for conditioning.  Additionally, I’m dealing with foreign water, which can sometimes be harsh, while using products that aren’t necessarily designed for my hair.  I foolishly thought I could get away with doing the bare minimum of washing and detangling every two weeks.  Um … no.

Turns out, all that extra stuff I was doing with Indian herbs and homemade conditioners wasn’t so extra after all.  Those were necessary steps to keep the hair happy.

I’ve been coloring my gray hair with henna for years.  I chose to use it because it is all natural (pure henna is just dried, ground up leaves), it acts as a protein treatment to strengthen the hair, and I like the color.  The last treatment I did was in February 2023 at the latest.  This picture (02/24) is after a year of growth and what is known as a metric buttload of gray hair.


I’m quite saddened.  I don’t think I can pass for a 20-year-old anymore, dear readers.

Especially not since I turned 50. 

(What’s up with that?)

I considered just letting it grow out and eventually cutting out the red, but … I really can’t stand the gray.  I don’t want to put any chemicals in my hair (especially since I haven’t babied my hair in a year, so its condition isn’t optimal to even take the color).  As messy and time-consuming as a henna treatment is, I decided to do one during my latest trip to the states.

Doing this process in a hotel room without a tub was not exactly ideal.  But if being on the road for so long has taught me anything it’s that you gotta be able to adapt.  The mixing and application of the mud-like henna was easy enough.  Rinsing it out was always the problem.  The shower ended up looking like a crime scene, but at least the messiest part was done.

The results were spotty.  I wasn’t used to having so much new growth to cover and I should have adjusted my application method to compensate, but it was still a vast improvement.


But, alas, only the color was better.  After a couple of days, once the hair dried, I could see that it wasn’t just the gray that was making it look bad.  There were some definite short pieces that I could no longer lie to myself and say was new growth.  Skimping on the deep conditioners, treatments, and even my hair coloring came with a price that I'm only now acknowledging.

That’s broken off hair, stupid!  And it’s been doing that and feeling thinner for months.

Denial is truly a powerful thing.

It was then, as my newly washed scalp began to itch, that I realized that I usually clarify my hair before a henna treatment.   I had neglected to do so this time and had not truly cleaned the gunk off my scalp in a year.  Now I also had henna residue on top of all the buildup from the foreign products I’d been using.  This is Haircare: 101 and I failed it just as I failed my hair.

I have sinned and now I must do penance.  I pray that the hair gods forgive me.  It’s time to go back to school.

YouTube videos have reminded me of the virtues of protective styling, deep conditioning, and cleaning the scalp to promote hair growth.  I’ve set myself back at least a couple of years and I’m obviously still not in a stable, controlled environment, but I’ll do my best from now on to keep what hair I have left on my head. 

I can’t say that Europe makes that process any easier.  I’ve already mentioned the lack of black hair care products in most countries.  Portugal (fortunately) seems to be an exception to this rule.  While they don’t carry the product lines I’m used to seeing, there are quite a few items with pictures of big-haired black women on them.  Yet another plus to moving to the country.

Another issue I have is with European bathrooms.  This is one credit I will give to America for doing things better.  The setup in my house was very simple. I had a bathtub with a wall mounted showerhead and a shower curtain to keep in the water.  Easy, right?  Europe has decided to get complicated with its designs and I’m not digging it.

First off, most bathrooms I’ve encountered on this trip have drains built into the floor.  The reason for that is because none of the showers are designed to keep in water.  I don’t know why this is so difficult, but showering in Europe is made way more of an issue than it should be.  This is the bathroom from Naxos, Greece.  Pretty and artistic but messy. 


Secondly, and what I miss most during the rinse out process of doing my hair, is the lack of bathtubs.  I’ve encountered maybe three in my entire journey.  The Europeans are very fond of showers with a detachable showerhead.  The better ones will also have the big pancake sized showerhead directly overhead like this one in Ireland.


That was a decent sized, fully enclosed shower, a rarity in Europe and unlike the shower in Santorini.  This one at least had a shower curtain, but it was still tiny with a low ceiling.  At 5’9” with a foot of hair, I had to commit an act of contortionism to get through the shampooing process.  A taller man would have had to hunch over to get anything done.


Then there’s this one from Mykonos.  Just … why?  You know people use water in this tiny little space.  Why not just enclose the whole thing to keep the water inside the tiny little space?  Why is this concept so hard to understand?


I’ve seen a few setups like this one in Sofia, Bulgaria.  I can’t tell you how much I hate those partial partitions.  Seriously, just get a shower rod and curtain.  That would solve so many problems.


Needless to say, for the sake of my sanity (and my poor hair), I will be looking for a new home with a decent shower set-up.  Finding a tub in a European apartment might be like finding a unicorn, but that won't stop me from trying.

Saturday, February 03, 2024

Balat Welcomes Me Back

 



I was more than happy to leave that tiny apartment.  Too much noise and not enough space for me.  I was able to book a place in the Balat neighborhood and I was thrilled.

A quick taxi ride across the Bosphorus and I was back on the same street I’d stayed on last year.  The new place was even owned by the same host.  Force of habit had me trying to get into the old apartment (#7) when someone called my name.  Mehmet, the host, greeted me at the door and showed me to the new place (#12) just a few feet away.  He helped me inside before wishing me a pleasant stay.


I knew this wasn’t the same place I’d rented last year, but it was amazingly similar and just as homey.  Good thing too since the weather kept dropping to below freezing and making me a lot less eager to get out in it.  Most days I sat at the table in the warmth checking the temperature online. Can we at least get up to 40 degrees F so I can go outside without having my toes go numb? Then, when I would go out, I’d see people just sitting out in that 40-degree weather.  At least I was moving around and generating some heat.  “But I have my cigarette and my cup of tea,” said the Turks.  Seriously??


The neighborhood is just as busy and colorful as I remember it, only now everyone was bundled up from the cold.  I discovered some new restaurants, funky little holes in the wall with few customers but great food and atmosphere.  I had my beloved charcuterie breakfast a couple of times at a little place named Pops that was less than a five-minute walk from the apartment.


I stayed in that apartment for a little under two weeks but find it difficult to post much about that time.  There was nothing really exciting going on – dare I say that my life became rather routine.  I cooked, I studied, I washes clothes, I walked along the Bosphorus.  I was good in my homey apartment in Türkiye.  It was just another sign that I am ready to be housed again.  Hopefully my next trip to Portugal will see that happen.

The place at #12 was booked up, otherwise I would have extended my stay through February.  But the other place, the same apartment I rented last year upon my second trip to Istanbul, was available for another two weeks.  Cool.

In the easiest move of my entire journey (well, second easiest after Naxos), I switched from #12 to #7.   I had a huge grin on my face upon seeing the place again.  Granted, the other apartment was similar, but better in several ways.  The front door didn’t weigh 900 pounds, requiring a hulk-like strength to open and a narrow behind to get through.  There was only one set of windy, annoying stairs to climb as opposed to two.  The bathroom was wider and a lot easier to maneuver.  The living room was bigger and included a larger dining room table for my computer and stuff.

But there was still one thing that set #7 apart from #12 – I had sex there.  Twice.

And as I’m probably never having sex again, I like holding onto those good memories.

I quickly got cozy again and settled into my same routine.  All was good until I got a message from my stepmom regarding an urgent legal matter that needed to be addressed.  I had been named as one of the heirs to my deceased aunt's home.  The sale was being finalized in North Carolina and I needed to sign some papers.  

I emailed the lawyer handling the case and let her know that I was out of the country.  How was I supposed to do this?  She suggested finding the American consulate, consulting a notary, and having the paperwork shipped back to the states when finished.  Really?  Just the thought of doing all that was exhausting.  So, I figured it'd be better for me to go to their office and sign the papers in person.  I wasn't happy about it -- I had already paid for another week in that rental with the idea of returning to the states afterwards.  But ... there were other people involved in the sale and I didn't want to hold up the works.  And, of course, money.  So ... I guess I needed to book a flight.