Maui -- Day 7 6/12/12

Slept well for once.  I think The Party Girlz!^© moved out, thank the heavens.  At least I’d be rested for this my last day on the island L.

I watched part of V: The Mini Series while packing up the rest of my stuff.  Boy did I do some shopping.  Even the collapsible bag I always travel with was full.  I would definitely have to check a bag at the airport.

Walked to Denny’s for breakfast before going across the street to the beach.  As I took my final beach stroll, I couldn’t help but think about the possibility of moving to an island.  Part of the magic of the island vacation is that you’re getting away from the everyday grind.  You’re off schedule and have deliberate plans to relax and enjoy.  Does that change when you live on the island?  I’d spoken to various people on this trip.  There was Colleen on the plane, a native returning home ‘back to the grind’ as she called it.  She also remarked, after asking me what I’d planned to do on the trip, that when you live on the island you never go to the beach.  Then there was the woman who worked in the Hard Rock in Lahaina.  She worked just across the street from the water and had a great view of it. Yet when I asked her if Maui was better than the mainland she said only sometimes.  John, the boat captain from yesterday, got to spend all his time on the water (absolute heaven for me).  The price was that he was living in a house with a few roommates, couldn’t afford to travel, and lived off of tips.

Does the island lose its luster when you work there?  Native Hawaiians aside, anyone not fabulously rich would have to get a job and pay the bills in order to stay.  And let’s face it; retail, landscaping, construction, housekeeping is all the same whether it’s on an island or the mainland.  Maui is wonderful and all but I wouldn’t want a move to kill my chance to travel anywhere else.  I think an island would definitely become confining if you simply can’t afford to leave.

This all goes to the idea that it’s best to just be independently wealthy.  I really gotta work on that.

Anyway, I collected some water and sand in a small plastic bottle and went back to the hotel.  I hadn’t planned to check out so early (check out was noon and it was only around 8:30) but Housekeeping was on the way so I figured I’d beat it ...

… Right back to Lahaina.  Gee.  I must really like this city.  And boy do I miss the drive.

This trip I stopped by the Lahaina Cannery Mall to buy all the things I’d managed to resist on my last trip.  Another stroll along the main shops and the pier, then I reluctantly headed for the airport.

Quickly returned the car without getting charged any extra, shuttled to the terminal, then it was on through customs.  I had to ditch the ocean water but it didn’t bother me;   I had enough sand in my swim shoes to more than compensate for what I’d collected in the bottle.  The agricultural dudes scanned my bag and asked me about the two round objects that they couldn’t identify.  It took me a minute to remember what they were talking about then just abruptly said “soap bombs”.  I actually said it again without even realizing it then thought, ‘hey.  I got to say the word ‘bomb’ twice in Maui airport and wasn’t wrestled to the ground.  Woo Hoo!'

Since I’d gotten to the airport way too early, I made an unprecedented third Starbucks run (staring at the picture of their new cookie crumble frappachino was way too tempting) and found an nice bench near an open window to wait for my flight.  Last chance to see palm trees and get a tropical breeze before being once again confined to a cramped metal tube with a bunch of strangers.  Best waiting period ever! 

Fortunately the flight was not too bad as it’s always worse going to a location than coming back.  This being an overnight flight made things easier.  I watched the movie (Journey to the Center of the Earth Mysterious Island – eh.) and once again managed to not get sick.  Landing in Dallas, I grabbed a quick breakfast then it was on to Atlanta.

I was very glad to the see that the car had survived the parking lot at work.  It was very dirty for some reason but in one piece.  Driving back home a couple of things struck me; 1) I live really far away from my job – it took forever to get home and 2) such a long drive makes entirely no sense without being able to see the water.  Twenty-six miles of Publix grocery stores and mini malls just won’t cut it after the ocean views I just left.

House intact and cat still alive – always the best welcome home you can get after a vacation.  I unpacked and then lay down on the living room floor to get reacquainted with the cat when suddenly I couldn’t keep my eyes open.  The time difference, trying to sleep on cramped planes, along with being up since 6 Atlanta time meant that it was way past nap-time for me.  I went upstairs and conked out.

Woke up four hours later completely disoriented, no idea where I was or what was going on.  Hey!  Whose cat is this?  She sure is friendly … wait.  That’s Beata.  This is my room, at home in Atlanta.  Which is why I hear air conditioning and not the ocean.  Bummer.

So that’s the tale.  I’m home safe and sound though I ended up with a nasty case of prickly heat on my arms and neck that lasted for over a week.  Small price to pay for a week in paradise.  As usual, though, travel just makes me want to do more traveling.  Of course, now I’m broke but that doesn’t mean I can’t make plans for next year.  I’m really digging the water outings I’ve had in the past two years.  I need to make that happen more often.  Also, my passport expires next September so I’m thinking I need to get one last stamp before I have to renew.  Maybe the bed and breakfast thing across Ireland that I’ve wanted to do for a while.  Peru is another option as I want to see Machu Pichu. 

Next trip to Hawaii I plan to hit the Big Island.  I just hope it doesn’t take me another five years to do it.

Mahalo and Aloha!

Maui -- Day 6 6/11/12

Woke up at midnight, four, five – I hate my neighbors!  Yet despite the constant interruptions (or in anticipation of them) I didn’t need to use the loud alarm on my phone as I was once again up before six.  I put on my swimsuit and ate a power bar before gathering my gear and heading out the door for my planned snorkeling adventure.

Got checked in at the nearby dive shop; which meant getting huge flippers for my huge feet, the strongest goggles they had, and of course signing a waiver absolving the shop in case of my getting eaten by sharks or something.  Then it’s back to the car and back the way I came until I reached Kihei pier.

A small young woman named Tia introduced herself and checked for attendance while a couple of guys unloaded the boat from the truck that was towing in into the water.  Then we slowly piled into the boat and met the captain named John.  John explained what would happen on the three-hour tour (can anyone ever utter that phrase without thinking about Gilligan’s Island?) and that while he would be steering the boat, Tia as a dive instructor, marine biologist, and nautical ninja would be in the water with us to assist.  They offered us coffee and small snacks before we took off.

Unsurprisingly, I’m the only single and the only black woman on the boat.  There is one older couple, two couples with two teen daughters each, a woman with her two daughters, her son and his girlfriend, and another couple with their two young kids.  The father of the last couple bears a striking resemblance to Evan Handler, the guy from Sex and the City and Californication, right down to the bald head and the stocky frame.  I almost thought it was him until his wife called him Brian.

We headed out and before we even got half-way there, we spotted our first big green turtle in the water.  Our destination was Molokini, a crescent shaped crater about half an hour away from Kihei.  We wouldn’t be landing on the crater since actually a bird sanctuary and off limits to humans.  Instead we set anchor just off the shore along with a bunch of other boats full of divers and snorkelers. 

Already we could see some dark blue fish near the surface as we started to gear up.  let everyone else take their turn to get off the boat, still nervous about getting into deep water.  I was the kid in swim class who wasn’t lining up to dive into the deep end of the pool after the lesson was over.  But I want to face the fear, hence the snorkeling.  The tour guides turned out to be more than accommodating for the squeamish like myself.  There were boogie boards to hold unto with a hole in the center for seeing the bottom for anyone who wanted them.  There were also floatation devices in the form of bright yellow belts in different sizes.  I slipped one of those on but, not wanting to look like a total wussy, I left the boogie boards to the others. 

Also, something I didn’t know, you don’t have to spit on the masks to keep them from fogging like you see in the movies.  Tia showed us the technique of using a spray bottle full of heavily-diluted baby shampoo onto the lenses.  Rinse them off in a bucket of water and you’re left with a thin sheen of soap that doesn’t sting your eyes and keeps the lenses from fogging.  You learn something new every day.

Okay.  Flippers on, floaty in place, face mask prepared and properly fitted, dive shirt on to protect from sunburn, and here we go.

Oy.  I thought Tia said the water was warm.  Maybe to her but on my sun-warmed skin, not so much.  It took a few minutes but just like my earlier trips into the ocean, I eventually got used to the water.  The floaty around my waist refuses to let me drown – I could literally just stop moving and still be afloat.  Cool.  Deep water not so scary anymore.  Now all I had to do is navigate the bit in my mouth and try to do some snorkeling.

You know, once I figured out that I should actually breathe into the odd apparatus in my mouth instead of holding my breath, the whole idea of being face-down in the water didn’t sound nearly so suicidal.  And oooh …. fishies!

Tia was sitting on a surfboard nearby and once I let her know that I was okay, I was off and snorkeling. There was an amazing amount of visibility.  I could see all the way to the bottom of the reef several feet away.  The mask wasn’t nearly as strong as my prescription but still allowed me a good view.  No pictures unfortunately.  I was worried about getting my camera wet so I didn’t bring it and I neglected to buy an underwater camera.  This postcard might help you get a visual. This is not Molokini but the reef looked a lot like this with schools of fish everywhere.  Some of the others even saw a shark though I missed that one.  Too busy trying to calm my breathing which is very loud to my ear while having to adjust the rubber piece over my nose to be more comfortable.  Still kept getting water in it which required me to do some very unladylike snorting to get it out.

About five minutes after we got there, Tia warned us that another boat was coming in so stay out of the way.  This one was much bigger than the one we were on and carried a whole lot more people.  Dozens of them with bright floaty sticks that promptly scared most of the fish away.  Man, I was just getting into that.  Oh well.  Our half hour at Molokini was soon up and we were back on the boat.

Have I mentioned that I love being on the water?  I really love it.  Even last year when I was on the ferry in Italy, when everyone else was barfing I was still good.  And boating here?  In Maui on another gorgeous day with the sun and the waves and the sea air … awesome.  Even Tia remarked that she’d love to just stay on the boat and enjoy the day.  All we needed was a grill and some beer and we’d be set.  Believe me, nobody gave her any argument.

The next spot was a place called White Rock that was near Wailea Beach.  This would be ‘Turtle Town’ for this trip though the location of Turtle Town changes with the tour.  Not so scared this time but man did that water feel just as cold as it did earlier in the day.  The water wasn’t as clear here and there weren’t nearly as many fish.  I never did see a turtle while in the water but, wouldn’t you know, the second I got out we spotted two of them.   At least I got to see them. 

We headed back to the pier after a brief three hours, stopping just short of docking so John could tell us a few things.  He stopped in the middle of ocean because some other boats were launching from the pier and making too much noise for him to be heard.  He encouraged us to finish off the snacks because as soon as we docked, those little brown birds would be all over it.  I already knew about those birds from the breakfast at Caffe Kihei.  Little brown vultures.  He then none-too-subtly hinted that if we wanted to tip, Tia would be more than happy to hold the money.  Oh shoot.  I didn’t bring any cash, no credit card, nothing.  Didn’t want to risk losing anything and completely forgot about a tip. 

John docks the boat and I kind of slunk off and said my goodbyes.  I sincerely hope that the other passengers tipped well.  That was a great outing and John and Tia really deserve any tips they get.  I’ll just have to tip them double on my next trip to Maui.

I have a sudden craving.   I want a burger.  I had some time before I had to return the equipment so I figured I’d stop by the room for a shower and a change of clothes then head out again.  My first thought was to go back to Lahaina to Cool Cat which is supposed to have the best burgers on the island but I managed to restrain myself.  I’d already been to Lahaina three times – enough already!  Instead I chose to go back to the Wailea shops to a restaurant I remembered seeing.

When I’m seated at Cheeseburger Island Style, one of the first things the waitress asks me is if I want a Mai Tai.  I hadn’t even thought of booze as I’m not a drinker but … sure!  Where better to have my first one ever than in Maui surrounded by pictures of hula dancers and palm trees?  And it was tasty too!  The Italian style burger was interesting but also not bad. 

After the meal I returned the snorkeling gear then drove to Kahului to visit a scrapbooking shop I’d seen earlier.  With all the pictures I’d taken, I wanted to have some island themed supplies for documenting everything once I got home.

When I got back to the hotel that familiar fatigue was hitting me.  I wanted to go out and get some ice cream but it didn’t happen.  Settled down to watch Eureka before hitting the sack.

Maui -- Day 5 6/10/12

Up at 5:50, I knew I wanted to make one more trip to Lahaina.  I tried to head to Caffe Kihei first for breakfast but it was way too crowded.  Hit Starbucks instead for  yet another yummy latte and a breakfast sandwich then it was back on the road for me.

Living in Atlanta, it’s easy to forget how much I like to drive.  It’s actually an enjoyable experience where you don’t have anywhere you need to be.  And being able to see water most of the trip – bonus.

The tiny town of Ma’alaea is my first stop.  The aquarium is here as well as a dive school, a pier, and several small shops.  Only the shops were open so of course I managed to be divested of even more of my dwindling cash.  Purchases in hand I got back into the car.

When I got the car from Alamo they gave me a map of the island.  On it are several places that are marked as forbidden territory as in if you take the car over these roads you void your leasing agreement.  That made me curious.  Were these roads unpaved? Plagued by daily avalanches?  What made these parts of the road so impassible to anything but a 4WD?  Let’s find out, shall we?!

So I droved past Lahaina and Ka’anapali, past anywhere I’d been on this road before until the busy four lane highway narrowed into two lanes.  Then it started to get twisted and dark because of over-hanging tree limbs.  Turns out this part of the road is forbidden because the narrow road hangs off the side of a cliff at various points and there are only sporadic guard rails.  Oh.  That explains it.  I pulled into the last overlook before the road got really interesting, took some pictures, and headed back down.

There are several towns along this road, most of them I just drove through.  But I did stop at one; Oneloa beach.  To get to Oneloa you go through a very high end community, past the golf course, the country club, and the community store before you can find parking.  There are signs for a trail that partially winds around the beach so as soon as I park I decide to follow the trail.

Even though all of the beaches on Maui have public access, Oneloa feels more like a private beach.  With houses fronting the water instead of hotels and resorts, most of them with very easy access to the beach through their backyards, there is more a secluded feel to the place. 

The trail signs are a little confusing.  I initially went along the wooden path that borders the beach but stopped when the wood gave way to dirt.  I went back to the parking lot where this part of the trail began and ended up walking along the street for what seemed like forever.  I wound up in the parking lot of the Ritz Carlton before I realized that I needed to turn around. Retraced my steps to the wood trail and then went further.  This part of the trail is very hilly and rocky with the ‘trail’ being almost impossible to pick out in certain areas.  It eventually leads to the edge of the rock cliff overlooking the water.  There are a bunch of little tide pools and caves on this end that were really pretty.

Making my way through the rocks and back to the wooden path, I found a couple who were trying to navigate the path as well.  They asked me to take their picture while I told them how to get to the rocks. The guy was kind enough to return the favor.

On the way out, I stopped by the community store.  It’s a nice place with groceries, souvenirs, and a café in the back.  I scored some buy one get one free Kona coffee and some chilled pineapple (both must-buys while in Hawaii).  I gobbled up the fruit in the parking lot then got back on the road.

Back in Lahaina, I stopped at the Cannery Mall, a place I missed the last time I was there.  The mall is small with a few nice shops in it.  There was also a stage set up where they’d have hula shows on the weekends.  I caught part of one before returning to Kihei.

I grabbed a salad and my beach gear and walked to Kama’ole to eat.  As always, it was nice to just sit on the beach but it wasn’t long before I was getting sand blasted by the wind (I even found sand caked behind my ear later on!).  Really need to hit this beach in the morning.  It’s just way too windy in the afternoon. 

I walked along the beach to Kama’ole I and Kama’ole Bay.  Each was smaller than Kama’ole II and rockier but still very nice beaches.  The rocks also seemed to block the wind a bit more.  This allowed me to sit out for a little bit longer before finally heading back to the hotel for the night.

Maui -- Day 4 6/9/12

Hey.  Why’s it so dark?  I woke up Saturday morning thinking that it might be about to rain.  Then I looked at my watch.  5:10 a.m.  Oh.

This reminded me that when I was in Oahu, it rained every day even if it was just for a few minutes.  So far every day in Maui has been gorgeous.  Maybe April is the rainy season and the skies clear up by June. 

I went to the Cinnamon Roll, a shop in walking distance from the hotel.  They make these ginormous rolls fresh every morning and load them with whatever you want (pecans, frosting, sprinkles, etc).  Again, not diet food but it was certainly tasty though I could only eat half of it.

Today’s beach stop:  the gorgeous Wailea.  Wailea is the next neighborhood to the south of Kihei, too far to walk but a short car trip.  I passed by a bunch of very fancy schmancy homes until I got to the nice open air mall that houses the Wailea shops. 

Walked around there for a minute before finding a cherry spot in the narrow beach access parking lot. 

This beach, like Ka'anapali, has a bunch of hotels fronting it except way more fancy.  The Four Seasons and the Grand Wailea are here as well as some condos.  I can understand how the higher end hotels are here; Wailea is a really nice stretch of beach.

The trail that leads past the hotels has some really pretty manicured lawns and trees.  There are signs that point out some of the flowers that grow there as well as signs warning against venturing off the trail into protected areas.  At various points the trail winds around rocky areas that have steep dropoffs.

Some of the same ammenities from Ka'anapali are here as well; restaurants, pools, and sea activities.  One of the restaurants is named after the impossible to pronounce state fish: the Humuhumunukunukuapua'a.  Yeah.  That's not a typo.  They just call it Humu for short.  It's an expensive seafood restaurant in case you wanted to know.

I saw the staff cleaning up the meeting area for the luau they hold 3-4 nights a week.  I considered going since this is a much safer option than trying to navigate from Lahaina back to the hotel at night.  Still hesistant to make any solid plans though since I'm usually comatose by around 7:00.  Not sure if I could last through the evening.

Just walking along, I spotted this amazing church behind The Grand Wailea.  Surrounded on three sides by a koi-filled pond, it looked like the perfect place to get married or renew vows for a religious couple.

Personally I'd rather get married outside on the beach but it's still a nice option for someone else.

After gettting a good look around, I sat on the beach for a while before making my way back to the mall.  It's finally dawned on me that I'm running out of time.  I wanted to get in some water activity before leaving.  I'd spoken to the hotel concierge about biking Haleakala but decided against it.  He mentioned ziplining and snorkeling as alternatives which both sounded interesting.  Never done either of those things so I decided to get some info on snorkeling at the dive shop in the mall.  The lady there was very helpful in signing me up to board the Kai Anela on Monday to snorkel off of Molokini.

From Wailea I headed to Kahului to do some more shopping, which included a trip to freaking Old Navy.  I call it that because I have a serious grudge with the place.  I had avoided it for years because I knew that any store that sold size 0 and extra small was not the store for me.  Then I made the mistake of trying  something on one day and realizing that it actually fit.  That store has taken quite a bit of my money since then, as it has spectactularly enabled my tank top habit for years. No tank tops this trip though.  I went in specifically to find a dress for the luau since I hadn't brought anything dressy with me.  Once I found a nice black one, I went on about my business.  Now, if I could just quit that store altogether ...

A quick stop to Kmart for some supplies and a slice of pizza and I was back to the hotel for the night.